Lucien Le Moine Batard-Montrachet 2016 (96 VM)

“Extremely reduced on the nose, which Saouma takes as a positive sign for this cuvée. Wild, rocky and powerful, with very sweet (actually three grams per liter) flavors of pear oil and clove complemented by smoky minerality and framed by surprising lemony acidity (Saouma told me that this wine was stinky a few months ago, smelling like firecrackers). This Bâtard has the palate presence and tannic support of a red wine, finishing with extraordinary thickness and length. Today it’s hard to scrape this off the palate. These vines are planted on humid, clay-rich soil.”